HEIC to JPG
Convert HEIC and HEIF photos from an iPhone or iPad into JPG files that open anywhere. Decoded on your device - no upload, no sign-up, batch conversion.
Drop your HEIC file here
or click to browse files
Add one or more HEIC or HEIF files - the format iPhones and iPads use by default - and get JPG copies that open in Windows, Android, older editors, social media and any website upload form. You can drag in a whole album at once and download the results one by one or as a ZIP.
The conversion happens on your own device. Apple devices can already decode HEIC natively, so there the whole thing runs with no extra download; other browsers fetch a small decoder (about 600 KB) the first time and cache it afterwards. Your photos are never uploaded, which matters for pictures of documents, family or anything else you would not want on someone else's server. Note that JPG is a lossy format: choose a lower quality for smaller files, and remember that converting to JPG discards the extra colour data HEIC stores - convert to PNG instead if you want the decoded pixels untouched.
How to convert HEIC photos to JPG
Add your HEIC files (a whole folder is fine)
Choose JPG and set the quality
Download each file or all of them as a ZIP
FAQ
Why can't Windows open my iPhone photos?
iPhones save photos as HEIC by default, a format Windows and most Android apps cannot read without an extra codec. Converting to JPG makes the files open everywhere, and you can also switch the iPhone camera to "Most Compatible" in Settings to shoot JPG directly from then on.
Are my photos uploaded to a server?
No. The file is read and decoded inside your browser tab, and the JPG is created there too. Nothing is transmitted, stored or logged, which is why this works offline once the page has loaded.
Why does nothing download the first time I use it?
On devices that cannot decode HEIC natively, the browser has to fetch the decoder - about 600 KB, once. After that it is cached and later visits start instantly.
Does converting lose quality?
JPG is lossy, so a small amount of detail is dropped; the quality slider controls how much. Converting HEIC to JPG also discards the extra colour depth HEIC can carry. If you need the pixels exactly as decoded, convert to PNG instead.
Can I convert many photos at once?
Yes. Drop in as many files as you like; they are processed one after another, and when you have more than one you can download everything as a single ZIP. Very large batches take longer on a phone because all the work happens on your device.
What about Live Photos and videos?
This tool handles the still image inside a HEIC/HEIF file. A Live Photo's video part and HEVC videos are not covered - those need a video converter, and we would rather say so than hand you a broken file.
At a glance
| Input | HEIC |
|---|---|
| Multiple files | Yes |
| Where it runs | In your browser - files are never uploaded |
| Works offline | Yes — once the page has loaded |
| Price | Free, no sign-up, no watermark |
Choosing between JPG, PNG, WebP and AVIF
These formats solve different problems, and picking the wrong one costs you either quality or file size. JPG is the safest choice for photographs and for anything you need to send to someone else, because every device and program opens it - but it is lossy and has no transparency. PNG is lossless and supports transparency, which makes it right for logos, screenshots, diagrams and anything with sharp edges or text, at the cost of a much larger file. WebP typically beats JPG by 25-35% at the same visible quality and supports transparency, but a few older programs still cannot open it. AVIF compresses even further, especially at low quality settings, but encoding is slower and support is the newest of the four. A practical rule: JPG to send, PNG to edit, WebP for your own website, AVIF when every kilobyte counts and you have checked that your audience can open it.
Getting a file under a size limit
Upload forms often demand something like "under 2 MB" or "under 500 KB", and the fastest way to get there is to work in the right order: crop away what you do not need, then reduce the pixel dimensions to roughly what the final use requires (1920 px wide is plenty for a full-screen web image, 1000 px for a blog post), and only then lower the quality. Converting to WebP or AVIF can be the single largest saving if the upload form accepts it. Stripping metadata is harmless for size and can matter for privacy, since photos often carry GPS coordinates, the exact camera model and the date. If a form still refuses the file, check whether it imposes a pixel-dimension limit rather than only a size limit - that catches people out more often than actual megabytes.